Thanks to the system's 2. The receiver's two watt digital amplifiers power the surround speakers. You read that right: the receiver needs to be wired to the rear speakers. Likewise, both the transmitter and receiver need their own AC power. If that sounds like a lot of wires for a "wireless" system, you're absolutely correct--but that's the same complaint we've had with nearly all other such systems to date. The "wireless" in the name refers to the cableless signal transmission between the transmitter and the receiver unit.
In other words, you're losing the two longest wires in a surround system--the ones that would otherwise need to be snaked from the front amplifier to the back of the room surround speakers.
The receiver can lie flat on a shelf, stand vertically in the supplied cradle, or be wall mounted from its keyhole slots on the bottom panel. Thankfully, accepting that semantic concession of the "wireless" moniker is the toughest part of the setup process--it's pretty much a plug-and-play routine. Seconds after powering up the transmitter and receiver, they automatically locate each other, and the receiver's red indicator will stop flashing and stay on. The system was fairly quiet--only when we stood right next to the speakers could we detect a small amount of audible hiss--and we weren't aware of the noise when we were listening to 5.
The receiver's rear panel has a volume control, so you can lock into a comfortable baseline level, then further adjust the volume through your main system's remote. Switching over to stereo, the Rocketfish electronics produced moderately loud hum and buzzing sounds over the surround speakers in other words, as long as the Rocketfish system is turned on, you'll want to listen in surround.
We didn't encounter any noticeable interference when using the Rocketfish. But your mileage may vary: cordless phones, Wi-Fi access points, and even microwave ovens may cause problems the same caveat applies to any and all products that use the unregulated 2. Consider replacing the receiver wireless audio module chip or replacing the sender wireless audio module chip. The LEDs blink more rapidly when the devices are connecting. Once the LEDs are solidly lit, the sender and receiver have been connected.
If after 30 seconds the LEDs are still blinking, press the connect buttons again. Make sure the device is properly plugged in and turned on.
If the LEDs are solidly lit, then the devices are connected. If the LEDs are blinking on one or both units, the sender and receiver are not successfully connected.
Refer to the section "No Communication Between Sender and Receiver" for information on how to successfully connect your devices. Rapidly blinking LEDs indicate that the devices are connecting. This should not last longer than 30 seconds. If the LED s is performing differently from these normal functions or will not light up, it could indicate a problem with the LED light chip inside the device. I have tried the 2 second count on both the sender and receiver several time but the light on the receiver will not stay lit and will not sink with the sender.
Can you help what should I try next? I had this problem as well I couldn't figure it out! I finally went to unplug it to return it back to bestbuy and realized one of my speaker wires for my rear speakers were disconnected. Not at the receiver but on my actual speaker. Worked perfectly after 2 months of not working! Both led lights sender and receiver are blue and steady but no sound. Laptop Tech Support. Question Does a docking station that bridges peripheries and monitors to a laptop and computer exist?
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